TED | 双十一别逛街了,在家“打印”自己的衣服吧!

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  Forget shopping. Soon you'll download your new clothes


  Danit Peleg 丹尼特·皮莱格

  Translated by Yi-Fan Yu

  Reviewed by Yolanda Zhang


  In the past few months, I've been traveling for weeks at a time with only one suitcase of clothes. One day, I was invited to an important event, and I wanted to wear something special and new for it. So I looked through my suitcase and I couldn't find anything to wear. I was lucky to be at the technology conference on that day, and I had access to 3D printers. So I quickly designed a skirt on my computer, and I loaded the file on the printer. It just printed the pieces overnight. The next morning, I just took all the pieces, assembled them together in my hotel room, and this is actually the skirt that I'm wearing right now.

  过去几个月中,我一直在旅行,一次就好几个礼拜,只带一手提箱的衣服。有一天,我被邀请去参加一个重要的活动,我想要为这个活动 穿戴一些特别的服饰。所以我翻遍了我的手提箱,但却找不到一件可以穿的。很幸运,在那一天我被邀请参加科技论坛,有机会接触到了3D打印机。所以我很快就在电脑上设计了一条裙子,然后我把它上传到打印机。过了一个晚上就打印好了。隔天早上,我就拿到全部部件了,我在饭店房间把它们拼凑起来,也就是我现在正在穿的这条。

  have access to sth 使用/见到…的权利/机会


  Students must have access to good resources.


  assembled [??sembl] v.收集;装配,组合


  The shelves are easy to assemble.


  So it wasn't the first time that I printed clothes. For my senior collection at fashion design school, I decided to try and 3D print an entire fashion collection from my home. The problem was that I barely knew anything about 3D printing, and I had only nine months to figure out how to print five fashionable looks.


  barely [?be?li] adv. 仅仅;几乎不


  There was barely any smell.


  I always felt most creative when I worked from home. I loved experimenting with new materials, and I always tried to develop new techniques to make the most unique textiles for my fashion projects. I loved going to old factories and weird stores in search of leftovers of strange powders and weird materials, and then bring them home to experiment on. As you can probably imagine, my roommates didn't like that at all.


  weird [w??d] adj. 不可思议的;怪诞的;奇异的

  the weird and wonderful creatures that live beneath the sea


  So I decided to move on to working with big machines, ones that didn't fit in my living room. I love the exact and the custom work I can do with all kinds of fashion technologies, like knitting machines and laser cutting and silk printing.


  custom [?k?st?m] n. 习惯,惯例 adj. (衣服等)定做的,定制的


  One summer break, I came here to New York for an internship at a fashion house in Chinatown. We worked on two incredible dresses that were 3D printed. They were amazing -- like you can see here. But I had a few issues with them. They were made from hard plastics and that's why they were very breakable. The models couldn't sit in them, and they even got scratched from the plastics under their arms.


  incredible [?n?kred?bl] adj. 不可思议的;惊人的;极好的


  The hotel was incredible.


  With 3D printing, the designers had so much freedom to make the dresses look exactly like they wanted, but still, they were very dependent on big and expensive industrial printers that were located in a lab far from their studio.


  dependent [d??pend?nt] adj. 依赖的;取决于…的


  You can't be dependent on your parents all your life.


  Later that year, a friend gave me a 3D printed necklace, printed using a home printer. I knew that these printers were much cheaper and much more accessible than the ones we used at my internship. So I looked at the necklace, and then I thought, "If I can print a necklace from home, why not print my clothes from home, too?" I really liked the idea that I wouldn't have to go to the market and pick fabrics that someone else chose to sell -- I could just design them and print them directly from home.

  那年晚些时候,有一个朋友给了我一条3D打印的项链,它是用家用的打印机打印的。我知道这些打印机比较便宜,比起我当实习生时的那几台机器,家用的也更好操作。我盯着项链看,然后就想,“如果我可以在家里打印一条项链,那为什么不在家里 也打印我的服饰?”我真的很喜欢这个想法——我不用再去商店买别人挑来卖的布料——我只要在家里设计,然后把它们直接打印出来就可以了。

  I found a small makerspace, where I learned everything I know about 3D printing. Right away, they literally gave me the key to the lab, so I could experiment into the night, every night.


  literally [?l?t?r?li] adv. 字面上;强调事实可能令人惊讶)真正地,确实地;[口语]差不多,简直(用于加强语意)


  There are literally hundreds of prizes to win.


  The main challenge was to find the right filament for printing clothes with. So what is a filament? Filament is the material you feed the printer with. And I spent a month or so experimenting with PLA, which is a hard and scratchy, breakable material.

  主要的挑战是,要找到正确的“丝料来印衣服”。那什么是“丝料”呢? “丝料”就是一种 你喂给打印机的材料。我花了一个月的时间用PLA做实验,( PLA:聚乳酸纤维)它是一种很硬又容易碎裂的材料。

  The breakthrough came when I was introduced to Filaflex, which is a new kind of filament. It's strong, yet very flexible. And with it, I was able to print the first garment, the red jacket that had the word "Liberté" -- "freedom" in French -- embedded into it. I chose this word because I felt so empowered and free when I could just design a garment from my home and then print it by myself. And actually, you can easily download this jacket, and easily change the word to something else. For example, your name or your sweetheart's name.

  而当我了解了Filaflex后,就有了突破性的进展,Filaflex是一种新型丝料。它很结实,但也很有弹性。有了它,我就可以打印我的第一件衣服了,这件红色夹克有个名字叫" Liberté"——在法语中是"自由"的意思——被融入了我的这个设计中。我选择这个字的原因是:当我可以在家设计并打印自己的衣服时,我觉得很有自主性,也很自由。实际上,你可以直接下载这件夹克,还可以随意把里面的字换成其他东西。例如,你自己的名字,或你心爱的人的名字。

  breakthrough [?bre?kθru:] n. 重大进展;突破

  to make/achieve a breakthrough

  作出 / 取得突破性进展

  So the printer plates are small, so I had to piece the garment together, just like a puzzle. And I wanted to solve another challenge. I wanted to print textiles that I would use just like regular fabrics. That's when I found an open-source file from an architect who designed a pattern that I love. And with it, I was able to print a beautiful textile that I would use just like a regular fabric. And it actually even looks a little bit like lace.


  puzzle [?p?zl] v. 使迷惑,使难解;为难,伤脑筋 n. 难题;智力测验,智力玩具

  a book of puzzles for children


  So I took his file and I modified it, and changed it, played with it -- many kinds of versions out of it. And I needed to print another 1,500 more hours to complete printing my collection. So I brought six printers to my home and just printed 24-7. And this is actually a really slow process, but let's remember the Internet was significantly slower 20 years ago, so 3D printing will also accelerate and in no time you'll be able to print a T-Shirt in your home in just a couple of hours, or even minutes.


  modify [?m?d?fa?] v. 修改;被修饰;改变


  The software we use has been modified for us.


  accelerate [?k?sel?re?t] v. 促进;(使)加快,(使)增速;加速


  Exposure to the sun can accelerate the ageing process.


  So you guys, you want to see what it looks like? Rebecca is wearing one of my five outfits. Almost everything here she's wearing, I printed from my home. Even her shoes are printed. So I think in the future, materials will evolve, and they will look and feel like fabrics we know today, like cotton or silk. Imagine personalized clothes that fit exactly to your measurements.


  evolve [i?v?lv] v. 发展;使进化


  As medical knowledge evolves, beliefs change.


  Music was once a very physical thing. You would have to go to the record shop and buy CDs, but now you can just download the music -- digital music -- directly to your phone. Fashion is also a very physical thing. And I wonder what our world will look like when our clothes will be digital, just like this skirt is. Thank you so much.


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